Mourning Jewelry: Keeping Memories Alive

Some accessories are to die for.

Mourning jewelry was on display, accompanied by a fascinating discussion provided by a panel of industry experts, as part of New York City Jewelry Week 2025, which brings together leading figures in the industry to curate extraordinary experiences, including exhibitions, exclusive shopping opportunities, and retail collaborations.

“Jewelry – A Historic Look at Fashion and Memorialization” was presented at the perfect place for it: Frank E. Campbell, an NYC institution located on Madison at 81st Street, which has served as the final farewell venue for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, John Lennon, and countless New York luminaries since 1898. A $20-million renovation has transformed its historic spaces into inviting rooms for author readings, jazz concerts, and community gatherings.

The distinguished panel was moderated by jewelry scion Esther Fortunoff-Greene, the third generation of Fortunoff, her family’s renowned company, which began in 1922. “Jewelry is in my blood,” said the president and owner of EFG Designs, who has pivoted to being more personal, selling as well as helping clients repurpose bijoux that they no longer love into something that they want to wear.

On the dais were Dana Kiyomura, a jewelry dealer specializing in antique pieces through her vintage collection, Keyamour, which spans the Georgian to mid-20th-century periods; Ward Kelvin, an accomplished jewelry designer and creative director whose long career spans fine jewelry, fashion jewelry, and luxury branding; and Jennifer Graziano, the fourth generation of her funeral-industry family who, in 2019, with help from Kelvin, founded RememBar, a collection of fine memorial jewelry. Each piece is a hollowed-out vessel, with keepsakes securely held inside.

Kiyomura shared a historical perspective that goes back to Roman times. “Throughout history,” said the antique seller, “you see examples of jewelry being made with people’s names in it, the year they were born, the year they died, even to go so far as having hair incorporated into jewelry.

“Memorial jewelry always spoke to a civilization that wanted to remember and keep a piece of a loved one nearby.” It came as no surprise that this jewelry had to be black: jet, onyx and gutta-percha, which is a type of resin.

“Mourning jewelry and memorial jewelry,” she continued, “both speak to the need that people wanted to still be fashionable, and to wear pieces that have significance in their lives, someone they lost.”

Graziano then addressed the contemporary. “During my lifetime, I saw this large upward climb toward cremation. I noticed that there was an increased need for tangible comfort, to hold on to something, to carry somebody who’s been loved and lost.

“I created RememBar with that in mind.” Each bar can have a name or message inscribed or have a lock of hair or drop of a loved one’s favorite perfume added. “Our bars also have the birthstone of the person who passed, and you’re able to add a sentimental word or date.” The collection also includes PetBar—vertical bars with a gemstone paw.

“When Jen brought the concept to me,” said Kelvin, “we created a system: The bottom of each piece has a very tiny screw and comes with a jeweler’s screwdriver, and a little shovel for the transferable things. They work in harmony.

“What’s unique about Jennifer’s collection is that it conjures the term that’s so popular now: quiet luxury. These pieces are just personal.”

Kiyomura then reminded us that antiques can be contemporary too. “A lot of Victorian jewelry is aesthetically very interesting and still relevant because of its structure and style; it still resonates in a fashionable way, though it has roots in mourning.”

The group of specialists also offered advice on caring for jewelry, whether it’s vintage or modern.

Said Fortunoff-Greene: “It all requires a lot of maintenance, going to a local jeweler and having [your items] polished and steamed. It’s just what you have to do to keep them looking okay. Don’t get hairspray or perfume on them. For pearls, just lightly wipe them with a cloth. A gentle jewelry cleaner is good for many things.”

Kiyomura then addressed storing. “Purely gold pieces should be kept separate from silver pieces just for oxidation reasons. Pearls often should be kept in bags, perhaps not with other pieces so close by. We put things in plastic bags and keep them all separate, so they don’t chip or scratch each other. I always admire women who keep all their jewelry in the original boxes.”

As the evening wound down, Fortunoff-Greene signed off with the affirming advice that “life is too short to not wear your jewelry.”

The takeaway from the uplifting event was that jewelry will always connote happiness and pleasantness. Mourning jewelry can be a coping mechanism and a way to heal; it’s an opportunity to take sadness and channel it into something beautiful.

Lorraine Duffy Merkl is the author of the novel, “The Last Single Woman in New York City.”