A Fresh Raw Fish Fan
After belonging to the Sports Center at Chelsea Piers for over four years, I have become somewhat accustomed to "gym sushi." That's sashimi and rolls I eat after dance class freshly made at the on-premise bar. It's OK, but the only flavors to speak of are the ones you add: ginger, soy sauce and wasabi mustard. So when I chanced into Avenue A's Le Miu for dinner with a friend, I was completely and pleasantly surprised by how good raw fish could actually taste. This had as much to do with the quality and freshness of the fish as with the unique and powerful flavors of the sauces the chefs used. When creating their distinct fish dishes, Yasuhiro Shoji (Yas), Takaho Mori, Motonari Matsunaga (Moto) and Miku Suzuki (Yas and Moto both helped open Nobu 57) share a philosophy: the flavor should always complement the fish. They utilize over two dozen types of sauces, each one zestier than the next. The sashimi platter we sampled included fluke sashimi with a mango seasoning and sesame sauce ($12), Japanese scallop with black sea salt and pink peppercorns ($6) and horse mackerel with sliced ginger and soy ($12). For starters, we snacked on grilled marinated duck breast with wasabi soy glaze ($7.50, I ate it and I don't even like duck!) and grilled miso marinated baby lamb chops shipped straight from New Zealand ($20). If you're a fan of well-cooked meat, be sure to ask for all your meat prepared just so, as it's not the norm.
While my friend and I tried the Mizuna Salad ($7), sprinkled with crispy bacon, fried bean curd and mascarpone cream dressing, and lobster ceviche with "Le Miu" salsa ($15), our next-door diner scarfed not one, but two orders in a row of the seafood cole slaw ($9), a mix of shrimp, smoked salmon and crab. Must be good!
Instead of opting for a main, we stayed on course with more sushi and sashimi. I began to craft a theory about the nutritional power of raw fish: As I ate, I actually became hungrier and filled with energy, as if the fish was being directly absorbed into my bloodstream, without all the fuss of actually having to be digested; a total plus for an indigestion-sufferer like me. Although the a la carte Saikyo miso marinated black cod with philo jacket ($16) must be a winner if it's anything like a similar dish I've tasted at Tribeca's Nobu, we ordered blue fin tuna ($5), blue fin toro ($7), yellowtail belly ($4), fluke wrapped around uni and Japanese mint ($3), giant clam ($5), bonito ($3) and salmon ($3). And while I'm the exact person who would have squirmed last week when hearing these very same names uttered in the same breath as "eat," I wolfed down every piece. A toro scallion roll ($8), too. I even saved room for their homemade sesame ice cream and coconut sorbet ($5).
The food was my favorite part but I have to admit the atmosphere came in a close second. The bartendress, Gina, who usually works a day job and only tends at Le Miu on Wednesday nights, entertained a lively crowd, rhythmic Brazilian music played courtesy of the manager Tamir's iPod playlist and diners strolled in all night. The walls were covered with a local artist's work and the lighting was perfect (maybe because this restaurant was once The Light Bar & Restaurant, which previously was home to a lighting store for many years).
Not to neglect the alcohol selection, Le Miu offers hot and cold sakes, red and white wines, organic Kaori plum wine ($9) and Gardet Champagne Brut ($12). I chose, however, to let the flavors of the fish reign. OK, so I don't really drink, but I will admit to stumbling home, stuffed yet completely satisfied.
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