Arqua 281 Church St. (White St.), 334-1888. $$$$. All major. A soaring and dramatic room at night; and even better during the day, when the long windows trap the austere Tribeca light. This starkly elegant, culinarily unimpeachable Northern Italian restaurant's become a stop for a devout and well-heeled Tribeca population, who turn out on weeknights to quietly eat superlative food: beef carpaccio, excellent daily risotti, zuppa di pesce, veal scaloppini and incredible gnocchi: dumplings of a profound delicacy, liquescing at their core and touched by a tomato and herb sauce. LWA.
CHANTERELLE 2 Harrison St. (betw. Greenwich & Hudson Sts.), 966-6960. $$$$. All major. One of New York City's great restaurants, and one of the most physically striking. At night, the vast and high-ceilinged room swirls with Whistler purples and grays and apricots and candlelight mauves. By day, the romantic gloom's gone, and huge sheets of winter sun spill through tall windows into the bare, elegant, pale-colored space, filled with a meditative and lovely winter-palace atmosphere that's even a bit melancholy. Chef/owner David Waltuck's menu changes seasonally, but entrees are typically substantial. A roast squab served on a heap of barley, a braised Scottish hare with red wine and juniper berries and a filet mignon with bok choy are just some of the dishes we've been blown away by in the past, and such signature dishes as the seafood sausage persist through time. A wine list notable for its many affordable bottles and one of the city's great cheese services, ordering which invites a veritable cheese education from one of the restaurant's expert, charming young staff. Reserve well in advance. WA.
Ecco