Counter

Counter

105 First Ave. (betw. 6th & 7th Sts.)

212-982-5870

For five years I've patronized Body & Soul, a vegan food stand at the Union Square greenmarket (Mon. & Fri) that deals in hearty turnovers and dense, savory wraps. On the sweet side, the hazelnut cookie and chocolate muffin are not to be missed.

So I was a little surprised when Scott, who's manned the stand for as long as I can remember, told me that owner Deborah Gavito was behind the new East Village vegan restaurant and wine bar Counter. I'd eaten there once or twice and been disappointed with the noise, poor service and salty food. But my significant other, a vegan chef on his off hours, loves it, and so does my friend Erika, a devout nonvegan. Convinced I should give it another try, I made a reservation for a recent Friday night.

Gavito and her partner Donna Binder have created a handsome, multipurpose space-bar, near-open-air lounge, restaurant-that feels roomy even with its two walls of booths and the heavy deco armchairs at the front tables. Tonight there's an exhibition by Mark Golebiowski, who's photographed edible flowers from Counter's rooftop. Throughout the evening, people explore the quasi garden's ripe, vivid blooms, 3-D viewing device held up like an opera glass, peering (politely, for the most part) over diners' heads.

On our server's recommendation, Erika chooses a glass of Weissburgunder "Alte Reben" 2002 ($14), an organic white wine from Austria. "I don't drink white, but this is the exact mix of sweet and refreshing I've always looked for," she says with approval. We've ordered the kalamata and cashew pate with homemade herb crackers ($7), and two entrees: hen of the woods, with mushrooms and asparagus/ramp ragu, grilled polenta and asparagus cream ($19); and the french lentil and wild rice terrine, with herb gravy, a potato pancake and roasted vegetables ($15).

Two things overwhelm us: the delightful presentation-and the salt. The natural flavors of our entrees' high-quality ingredients have been annihilated. Out of all this beautiful food, the roasted vegetables alone are a triumph-exemplary in texture, each bite an eloquent expression of wonderfully unadorned root veggies. But $15 is a little much to pay for roasted carrots. For the first time ever, I decline a doggy bag.

Disappointed but undeterred, we move on to the Valrhona chocolate tart ($7), and I order a cup of shade-grown, organic fair-trade decaf. Delicious coffee-and out-of-this world dessert. We make short work of the rich tart, truly pleased. (In the past, I've enjoyed the hazelnut mousse, which was sold out tonight.)

On our way out, Erika and I linger over the flower exhibit, and Gavito stands by to assist with the 3-D device. Every time I've been to Counter, she's been there. Clearly, the owners care deeply about this place; I'm just hoping they'll iron out the kinks in the kitchen. In the meantime, stop by for luscious desserts and a head-spinning selection of organic wines.