Organic Thrill
The Organic Grill
123 First Ave. (betw. 7th St. & St. Mark's Pl.)
212-477-7177
My friend Christopher waits outside on Organic Grill's bench for nearly 15 minutes before calling to see if I've already gone in. The little cafe barely has 10 tables, but he doesn't bother peeking in the front door: He has a nine-month-old son, and has to conserve his energy.
I prefer children's books to children, so while Christopher's broiling in the August sun, I've been enjoying air conditioning, a glass of water and Mein kleiner Hund Mister in der Nacht-a Danish tale in German about a basset hound in existential crisis.
"Glass of chardonnay or ice tea?" our statuesque server, clad all in white, inquires as Christopher settles in. It's 5:30 on a Saturday afternoon, and we're the only customers. I'd planned to stick with water, but when I hear that "creamsikle rooibos" is among the tea options, I change my mind. A caffeine-free red tea native to South Africa, rooibos is full of minerals, antioxidants and a natural sweetness that lends itself perfectly to ice; I often keep a pitcher of it in the fridge during the summer. Paired with the image of a creamsicle, it's too much to resist.
The ice tea lives up to its name; Christopher ordered one too, and we're both surprised at the depth of flavor. At first I wonder if it's been sweetened, but the server informs us it's just an excellent blend from Schenectady, New York's Divinitea (divinitea.com).
We start off the meal with edamame dip and homemade tortilla chips ($8.50). Christopher worked in a burrito joint in Mexico, and he explains that homemade chips are a simple matter of tossing sliced-up tortillas in a deep-frier. Even so, they beat out store-bought chips when done right. These are light and crisp, fanning out of a veritable mound of edamame spread. It's not unlike hummus, but with soybeans as the base, and flavored with bright, fresh parsley more so than the usual garlic or lemon. Christopher orders more chips (this time around, they're oddly spicy) to help us finish up.
Our entrees confirm my impression of Organic Grill as a spot for high-quality food with a home-cooked feel. Christopher takes a bite of my Paradise Casserole ($11.95) and laughs: "I feel comforted now!" It's layers of polenta, sweet-potato mash and black beans with a savory mushroom gravy; I wonder why I've never come up with this combination in my own kitchen. The slice of casserole, though sizable, is dwarfed by the accompanying mountain of steamed kale. There's nothing special about a tower of steamed greens outside of the health factor, but I've been lazy lately about cooking. I'm all too happy to box up what looks like about three take-home servings of green stuff.
Christopher's roasted-garlic tempeh triangles ($12.75), also accompanied by a forest of kale, give me more ideas for home cooking. They're topped with a dense expanse of roasted-garlic paste. While this tempeh has a mellow flavor, a feat in itself, the garlic's strength (and the quantity of paste) has created a notably clever pairing. The other complement, a black-olive tomato sauce, is delicious but scant. But perhaps I'm just being polite and keeping my fork to myself.
The dessert menu occupies an entire hand-written page. We mull over the vanilla tofu pie, a coconut cake, and a blueberry crisp (all in the $6 range), finally deciding to try the crisp. Again, an ample portion, especially of the tofu maple whip, but there's very little crisp here. It's mostly a lightly sweetened dish of tart stewed blueberries. It hits the spot for Christopher, but I want a crust that's as memorable as the fruit.
On a whim, I order a four-nut brownie to go. I'm curious: Could it merit the $4.50 price tag? I'll shell out big bucks for the right brownie without blinking. (Recently I discovered that Body & Soul, at the Union Square green market on Weds. and Fri., makes a ne plus ultra vegan hazelnut-fudge brownie for a reasonable $2.) Though I assure Christopher I have the willpower to save this for tomorrow, midnight rolls around and I can't resist a bite. Or two. Flavor and texture are both above average-it can be a challenge to avoid crumbling in wheat-free desserts-but all those nuts just get in the way.
Tonight, there were six or seven other desserts (all vegan and wheat free) that I wanted to try. And that's not the only reason to go back. The Organic Grill draws in repeat customers both through healthy, pleasing food and some savvy marketing. With their Frequent Diner Program, $250 in meals garners the diner a $25 credit-not to mention a free birthday entree and the ability to make reservations. Spouses can share a membership (no need for official marriage), and there's no sign-up fee. I fill out a simple form, and our server hands me a membership card. Tonight's meal, with beverages, an appetizer and two desserts, came to about $55 before tip, and counts toward the program.