Santa Claus Returns to Lower Manhattan, Christmas Joy in Tow

Rejoice Lower Manhattanites and Bruce Springsteen Christmas song fans alike, Santa Claus isn’t coming just coming to town, the man in red is already here. How he arrived is something of a mystery at present but as the great Alabama-raised country soul singer Clarence Carter told it in 1968, “They Call Me Back Door Santa, I make my deliveries in the rear.”

Replace back door with downtown and you’re close to understanding how Santa Claus— and his doubles—have ensconced themselves on opposite shores of Lower Manhattan, one on Pier 15 at South Street Seaport, the other in Brookfield Place in Battery Park City.

Although NYPD, the U.S. Departments of Defense and Homeland Security, and the and North Pole’s Deputy Commissioner for Public Information all declined to comment on how the Santas arrived downtown, informed sources suggest it was by not by land or river but rather by air— perhaps even a flying sled. As for where Santas stay downtown when they are not on duty pleasing the kids, adults and pets who wish to be photographed with him, this too is being kept hush hush.

East Side, Beast Side

On the East Side, Santa’s home is at Pier 15. Formally, the address is 78 South Street between John and Fletcher Streets. Colloquially, get yourself to Fulton Street and keep walking east, crossing under the FDR Drive. To the left you’ll see the Tin Building food court, to the right you’ll see the South Street Seaport ships and just past them, Pier 15, which in its non-holiday guise is best known as Watermark, a restaurant, bar and event venue renowned for its historic location and views of the Brooklyn Bridge. (Fans of the classic 1953 atomic bomb testing monster movie, “The Beast from 20,000 Fathoms”—which sees the titular Beast surface right here—must visit regardless of the season.)

Continuing through December 31, however, Watermark is transformed into Santa’s Winter Wonderland. At the high end, one can buy tickets for a variety of dining options—chalet seating, glasshouse table, private glasshouse, etc.—whose prices includes food and admission to the Christmas-themed Winter Wonderland arcade.

At the low end, you can pay about $22 ($19 + $2.71 “fee”) for admission to the Wonderland arcade alone. For many parents, this is the most compelling option and gives one an hour or so of entertainment in what’s essentially an outdoor Christmas-decorated play space.

Among the Wonderland’s offerings are numerous Christmas trees, a lighted tunnel, a large chalk wishing wall, a photograph-ready sleigh carriage with the Brooklyn Bridge behind it, a mini-carousel, and a toy shed with a fake “snow” makers (which seemed to be soap bubbles), marshmallow roasting fire, and, of course, pictures with Santa.

Other Seaport Attractions, & Wall Street Celebrates Too

Before or after visiting Pier 15, be sure to stop in Willett’s Café Spinone at 19 Fulton Street, inside of which is a small but wonderful assortment of gingerbread houses, including some set up amid a S-scale model train layout. This pop-up café opened on December 5 and is part of the larger Willett’s seaport concept which includes a wine bar. The café will be open through January 4 from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. If you arrive after sunset, the Fulton Street Christmas tree is bright and handsome.

Speaking of Christmas trees, Wall Street has a wonderful one that was illuminated outside the New York Stock Exchange on December 4. Don’t say capitalism doesn’t care—it does—and besides Santa Claus, Hank Azaria, Deborah Cox, Kelsie Watts and the Harlem Globetrotters were present to help show it.

The Bronx is Up and the Battery’s Down

Over on the lower west side, Santa has taken up residence in Brookfield Place—everyone’s favorite glass-enclosed upscale mall in Battery Park City. Designed by the renowned architect César Pelli, Brookfield Place opened in 1985 as part of what was then called the World Financial Center. Substantially damaged by debris on 9/11, the building was lovingly restored and today, quiet as its kept, today stands as one of the great public spaces in all of Manhattan.

Congruent with its locale and stature, the Brookfield Place “Selfies With Santa” events are entirely free, and as Abbie Hoffman once reminded us, free means you don’t pay. Santa piligrams do need to check in, however, and get a spot in the “virtual queue.”

If this sounds intimidating, it’s actually quite easy. You just scan a “QR” code with your smartphone and boom— you’re in, first come, first served, Santa will send you a text when he’s ready. Having witnessed his work in person, Brookfield Santa affable, chatty even. Santa’s “queue” opens 15 minutes before his various scheduled hours, which run though 6 p.m. on December 25; see the Brookfield Place calendar for details.

While waiting for Santa, Brookfield Place has much to offer inside and out. Up in the food court, this reporter is especially fond of Black Seed bagels but Dos Toros Taqueria, Mighty Quinn’s Barbecue and All’Antico Vinaio’s Italian sandwiches and more all have their appeal. Clean bathrooms and lots of places to sit with Hudson River views are also appreciated.

If you don’t want to eat just then, the Treadwell Park beer hall, at nearby 301 South End Avenue, has excellent burgers and other bar fare. Also, and perhaps more importantly, their outdoor Christmas decorations are first rate, and sure to excite kids who are yet well below the drinking age.