Savoring Spanish Delights
Intentionally, grungy hipsters and blonds in quilted coats share one thing in common: they rarely leave their neighborhood to eat. So, how does one justify schlepping to Inwood for nouveau Latin cuisine?
Few would expect to find this artsy gourmet eatery amidst the autobody shops and bodegas on 203rd St. Yet the yellow awning and glass storefront lure passersby, if only to sneak a peak at the decoration-come-installation in the front window, a birch-like tree planted in a large urn wrapped in amber stones from the Dominican Republic.
Inside, the all-around warm décor meshes with the sweet cocktails and spiced grub. Votive candles cast a glow on white tablecloths and wicker chairs. Six metal stools line the bar, and a plasma TV caters to sports fanatics.
Assuming the solo gringa patron doesn't speak Spanish, the bartender quickly appears to take my drink order. He begins explaining the contents of a mojito, all the while assuming I don't know what this non-martini drink of the decade is. Though ten bucks might seem steep, I take a chance. It becomes obvious that drinks and apartments share something in common uptown-both are not much cheaper than Manhattan proper, but they sure are bigger. Heaps of mint, lime slices and too much sugar fold perfectly with the rum in a glass that's large enough for two.
I snack on a basket of tortilla chips and a thin spicy salsa. Before I can drink enough to forget I'm the outsider, the ceviche ($8) arrives. Diced shrimp, tomatoes and onions in a light vinaigrette sit atop shredded greens in the center of a large white porcelain plate decorated with three tiny dollops of red roe. Next I sample the Camarones con Cangrejo ($17). Simple sautéed shrimp balance the heavy shredded-seafood delight, a mix of crabmeat and tomato sauce, all of which are arranged in a small wedge of green cabbage, accompanied by a carb-lovers side, herb citrus-dressed fried yucca strips.
In lieu of dessert, I opt for another drink, White Sangria, thanks to a carafe of a mysterious tangerine-colored cocktail on the next table. Immediately after inquiring, I'm offered a glass filled with ice, a cherry and an orange slice, and poured their tropical take on sangria ($9). The sweet mix of white wine, gin, a fruit liquor, triple sec and orange juice is a bit much, even for fans of girly drinks, but the presentation and unique taste make for an excellent alternative to cosmos.
Despite attentive servers and a diverse menu that includes Caesar salad ($8), a creamy lobster appetizer ($10), roasted chicken ($14) and steak, with exotic pureed veggies ($18), the upstairs lounge is what keeps the lights on. Decorated with vintage furniture, large-scale artwork and Chinese-inspired accents, this place makes chic Meatpacking hotspots seem boring. Even the bathrooms are stunning: waist-high iron and stone sinks that resemble birdbaths break up the monotone black motif. But none of these can match the painting above the bar. The owner used former employees as models when creating a modern take on Adam & Eve. Though the colors are dark, a subtle shadow shines on the sinners, revealing the truth in their eyes. Perhaps it's those eyes that help patrons justify ordering one mojito after another, a simple act that's kept this secluded spot open for over a year.
212-304-8611