Viva El Churrasco
I used to be one of those Upper West Siders who enjoyed dissing the Upper East Side, so my friends were amazed when I moved there a year and a half ago, into a soulless Yorkville high rise nicknamed "Dormandie Court." I soon learned that East 96th Street rather dramatically divides rich and poor, but there have been clear signs that gentrification is on its way, thanks to a number of new construction projects in the area just south of Spanish Harlem. Adjacent to the Islamic Cultural Center of New York, One Carnegie Hill is another luxury building that will open soon, depositing hundreds of hungry yuppies looking for a decent place to eat and drink. They will soon discover what I did a year ago-the East 90s are a gastronomic wasteland and Don Pedro's, on the northwest corner of East 96th Street has the best kitchen in the neighborhood. The atmosphere is lively, the service is friendly and the decor is upscale, in a distinctly colorful Latino fashion. My only complaint is that they might vary the music-salsa can get monotonous. But lots of the customers adore it, and I've seen diners take a few spins around the room in the wee hours.
One great perk: I always get a warm welcome there. Of course, that could be because I've used their bar as headquarters for my numerous Internet blind dates. The bar is pleasant and both Elsie the bartender and owner Jake Espinal don't blink an eyelash when I sit down next to one of the guys with whom I've arranged a rendezvous.
I found the restaurant shortly after moving to the East Side one sweltering summer afternoon, noting $7 sangrias advertised in front on a sidewalk chalkboard. I'm a sucker for cheap but good drinks. The red sangria is a potent blend of red wine, brandy, rum, oranges, apples and lemon. The mojitos are refreshing and artfully garnished with a stalk of sugar cane. Another plus is the basket of plantain chips and grilled slabs of bread to dip into a tasty orange pool of paprika and saffron-infused, cold-pressed olive oil.
Don Pedro's kitchen is visible to diners, where Chef Rene Hernandez (who was trained at Spain's well-regarded El Bulli) concocts classic dishes like Mofongo (pork and chicken both go for $14.95) and Pernil (their slow-roasted pork comes with yuca, $14.95), as well as some less traditional offerings.
I'm an admitted carnivore who prefers my meat nice and bloody, so I've always relished the Churrasco ($17.95), a grilled skirt steak with chimichurri sauce. For an appetizer, their Montadito Don Pedro ($8.95) is a standout: a pork tenderloin cured in a sea salt and marinated in paprika oil served on grilled bread with manchego cheese and piquillo peppers as a side. Their chicken dishes also hit the spot, such as Pollo Asado ($12.95), an upscale take on the slow-roasted chicken, and the Pechuga de Pollo ($12.95), a grilled chicken breast complemented by pungent citrus and cilantro flavors. There are fewer choices for vegetarians, but the Croquetas de Guineo Maduro, banana croquettes, (available for takeout at $8.50) and the Arroz Verdes ($14.95), composed of vegetarian rice with spinach, parsley and green peas make a good meal.
Anyone who knows anything about wines can tell you that Spanish wines are tasty, a bargain and a worthy alternative to Italian and French vintages. Don Pedro's stocks a good selection: Naia Verdejo, a fruity white, that's a worthy substitute for Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio. And the tasty reds from around the world include the Bordeaux-style varietal Baron de Rothschild from Chile and the full-bodied Riscal Tempranillo.
Don Pedro's is roomy-private parties often rent out the balcony space-so there's usually a table, but on weekend nights, it might be a good idea to make a reservation, unless you don't mind waiting at the bar. Never a bad idea if you want to party-which I usually do.
212-996-3274