Food & Drink
| 12 May 2026 | 01:13
From Charles Pan-Fried Chicken— with love! (
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Expounding on pickel power at Lava Schwarma. (
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Chocolate babke from Breads Bakery. (
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The cheese ad strawberry blintzes at Friedman’s. (
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The signature Zaza salad at Zaza Diner, 104 Greenwich St. (
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Charles Pan-Fried Chicken
146 W. 72nd St.
646-632-7869
www.charlespanfriedchicken.com
Bringing the taste of Harlem to the Upper West Side, Charles Pan-Fried Chicken excels both in its namesake bird and numerous other Southern–Soul food standards. Charles Pan-Fried is no “hip” rediscovery of regional table fare either. The restaurant’s founder Charles Gabriel was born outside Charlotte, North Carolina in 1947 and picked cotton as a child before moving to New York at the age of 17; it’s hard to get more authentic, even in one of Chester Himes’ Harlem-set novels. While chickens rule the roost, there’s also pulled pork, barbecue smoked ribs, catfish and among the sides, everything from grits to okra to yams, black eyed peas to lima beans and baked mac and cheese—and don’t forget the collard greens! Among the desserts, friendly fights have broken out between peach cobbler and red velvet cake devotees so if possible, you might want to purchase both.
Friedman’s Restaurant
450 10th Ave.
212-268-1100
Always on the lookout for pastrami and matzoh ball soup (a staple dish whose local renderings are far more inconsistent than they should be), the allure of Friedman’s was obvious, or so it seemed by a surname redolent of schmaltz and Celray: shalom, gastronomes, there’s a new deli in town! Well, not quite, for though Friedman’s does offer dishes from the deli tradition (including a fine matzoh ball soup, admirable pastrami and latkes), overall it’s an American restaurant with a variety of international influences—that happens to be largely gluten free. While that’s a story in itself, suffice it to say that Friedman’s experiments with non-gluten flours yielded such satisfying results, they now have seven Manhattan locations. (Sandwiches and toast can be ordered with gluten free or regular bread.) An ample breakfast menu (try the lemon ricotta pancakes) makes Friedman’s especially kid friendly. They also have a daily 3-6:30 p.m. happy hour for the imbibing set, including the Hudson Margarita (tequila, lime agave) and High Line Manhattan (Bourbon, carpano antica, bitters). Pescatarian Hit: Sesame Salmon Salad (kale, grains, pickled beets, pickled carrots, avocado, edamame, sprouts, soy vinaigrette).
Lava Schwarma
640 3rd Ave.
646-398-9800
It’s an interesting guessing game when a restaurant calls itself “Middle Eastern” or “Mediterranean”: is it Lebanese, Israeli, Palestinian, Jordanian, other? Some restaurants lean into a nationalist identity, others, being of mixed heritage or mindful that history is longer and more complicated than present day borders let their menus do the talking. Such is the case with Lava Schwarma, an apt decision given the Halal-restaurant’s self-stated goal of “blending timeless Middle Eastern recipes with bold, experimental flavors that ignite the senses.” The breakfast delight known as shakshouka (fresh red onon, fresh tomato, garlic, jalapenos, organic eggs, parsley) is pan-regional, with renditions popular across North Africa and the Middle East; the first version this reporter tasted was Yemeni. As for a smoked salmon bagel, you don’t have to speak Yiddish to thank the Polish Jews for that. Expected fare like salads (don’t miss the fatoush), schwarma, kebabs, falafel and joined by a variety of burgers and even samosas—which suggest a Syrian influence. Lava Schwarma has three other Manhattan locations (two downtown, one in Chelsea) and if you have grade school age children, don’t forget to remind them... the floor is schwarma!
Zaza Diner
104 Greenwich St.
646-864-0040
It’s easy, at first glance, to take Zaza Diner for granted. Its signage is modern and though its block is full of history, including the six decades it was part of Syrian Quarter or Little Syria—there’s nothing retro or quaint about its otherwise clean, bright, booth-filled interior. Look closely at the menu, however, and you needn’t be Herodotus to recognize Zaza’s classic Greek roots, such as the Zaza omelette (spinach, tomato, feta cheese). That said, Zaza stays true to the modern diner dictum of ecumenicism, offering quality renditions of all the expected breakfast and lunch fare (including an ample pancake selection, from spartan to decadent) with some notable reaches beyond, including Philly Cheesesteak, Louisiana Pasta, California Burger, Italian Pork Chops. A number of Mexican-inspired dishes reflect the city’s changing demographics and the heritage of many kitchen workers.
Breads Bakery
1230 Sixth Ave.
212-633-2253
It’s summer in Manhattan, it’s hot and muggy but still you’re walking lots, some might call it schlepping—oy! —but that’s why we live here. Maybe you work near Rockefeller Center, where this location is (there are others at Bryant Park and Union Square), maybe you’re meeting friends or giving advice to out of towners. Whatever the case, Breads Bakery offers sustenance and treats well beyond what its deceptively plain name suggests. Starting with the rising sun, there are delightful yogurt cups and breakfast sandwiches, coffees and teas. Come lunch time, check out the Cured Salmon on Jerusalem Baguette, a nod to Breads Bakyer’s Israeli roots, or the Tunisian sandwich (Chunk Italian Tuna, hard boiled eggs, potatoes, kalamata olives, tomatoes and spicy harissa on focaccia) and any number of salads and spreads. As for the baked goods, as its name suggests, there’s an abundance of riches. Few food choices are more personal than one’s challah and it’s a thrill to report Breads offers poppy, sesame and plain varieties, as well as rye bread, croissants and other rolls. Looking for sweets? There are cookies, cakes, tarts and as one would expect of a Jewish bakery, however modern, both chocolate rugelach and— for the “Seinfeld” fans—of course, chocolate babke.